Steve 的个人资料VERTICAL HORIZONS and NE...照片日志列表更多  |  工具 帮助 |
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2月28日 Yosemite!Ah Yosemite!
The mecca of rock climbing, attracting recreationalists and aspiring big wall climbers from all over the world.
This is where you would often find me in the late 1970's during Spring Break from College in March. It is a 23 hour drive from Moscow Idaho, which was always a marathon drive, sometimes in a single push. Well worth it to get to the vertical granite would of legendary climbing. Hard rock and easy living was the order of the day, and a beauty that is hard to compare outside of the Alaska Range.
As a photographer, I see why Ansel Adams spent time there, I would like to return if for no other reason.
Yosemite Falls with rime ice from a chilly night.
 This is El Capitan, a 3,000 foot tall hunk of clean solid granite.
The "Apron"
I was happy to follow this climb with the security of a rope for safety above me.
Though not overly technical it is at an awkward angle and is a sustained and strenuous climb.
2月18日 Hard MovesThe glacier is to the ice climber like a gym is to an outdoor athlete.
It is a place where things are fairly controlled and one can practise form, strength and dynamics at minimal risk.
This was during my early days as an ice climber, an apprentise if you will.
We spent many days in 1977-78 out at the Matanuska Glacier, honing skills, working on technique, enjoying commradery and having a great time.
I wanted to develop the skill to ascend an ice overhang, an event that is rare in the alpine environment.
After some time training I felt comfortable enough to do this on lead, risking a lead fall.
Looking back, the thing that strikes me is the antiquated ice tools I used,
but adequate enough they were in the plastic ice of the glacier.
This is probably one of the hardest physical climbing moves I ever succesfully accomplished,
at least on ice, in terms of strength and delicate technique.
So here it is, as documented by a good friend.
I climbed up on lead (note the safety rope is below me) to a likely small overhang.
 Set my tools firmly in the ice above.
 Then performed the hard part, or "crux" move,
consiting of mantleing up on my ice tools by doing a pull up, then maneauvering on my hands and balancing above until I could set my crampons to get a foot hold, then removing the tools one at a time and placing them above me.
And so on up the ice face above...
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